How to preserve Type 30 bayonet?

[Moneyz01]

Hey Bobby,

You said to use bronze wool. Do I oil the wool before starting the process? Also, the oil shouldn't have cleaning properties, right?

Thanks, Bobby.

[Moneyz01]

Hey Alex,

Sorry, I'm a bit confused about the oil and rag part. When you mention oil, do you mean using WD-40 for the handle or for the inside of the scabbard, with a rag first and then wool if that doesn't work? I'm also a bit worried about getting WD-40 on the handle. You said it's fine, but I want to make sure I don’t get too much on it. Is there anything I can use, like masking tape with plastic wrap?

Thanks, Alex!

[Alex W]

Some people use oil / oil with cleaning properties to fill up the scabbard for a few days before removing it. I've never bothered with that process.

Keep in mind that everyone will have a different way of preservation. You keep asking different people and getting different responses which is probably what is confusing you. I appreciate its concerning being that it's your first time but remember that these were weapons of war carried on belts, thrown around and then covered in cosmoline for long term storage. As long as you aren't using really harsh chemicals and you go super slow and light with the steel / bronze wool you shouldn't damage anything.

As for the wood handles some people think you should use wood oils on them but I don't treat them any differently to the rest of the bayonet and I've never had an issue.

If i owned your bayonet I would give the metal parts of the handle a light coating in WD40 (if some gets on the handles i wouldn't mind) and leave for a day or two. Wipe the whole thing down with turps and a rag. If any red/orange rust is still visbable spot spray it with WD40 and slowly and lightly apply circular pressure with 0000 steel wool until the red/orange is gone. There may be some dark discolouration or light pitting when you are done but that is irreversible so don't try to fix it as you'll only make it worse. Apply turps with a rag, then wipe dry with another rag. Give it 30 mins to dry then a light coat of renwax with a rag then lightly buff off the excess wax with a clean rag.

[Bobby]

Whether you apply the oil first to the metal surface then use the bronze wool or apply the oil to the bronze wool first will depend on which method gives you the best control of the application. I would probably apply the oil to the bronze wool first so it will not run onto the wood grips. As to oil with cleaning properties, I can't say if that would be an issue. But my belief is to always start with the simplest of products first. I use Hoppe's lubricating gun oil. Ballistol is an alternative to Hoppe's. It claims to be safe for wood. I have not used it so cannot make any claims about it.

The investment in Hoppe's (or Ballistol) and bronze wool should be minimal. So if this combination is not effective it will not cost much. And can always be used on another object. The problem that you are dealing with is a small surface area of rusty metal that is near wood. Start on a small area first, perhaps at the end of the pommel. And apply gently.

Also, like Jareth mentioned, I also use RIG grease as a metal protector. A thin layer.

[Moneyz01]

Hi Alex,

Thanks so much for understanding! I really appreciate it because I want to make sure I don’t damage a piece of history or upset the community. I’m planning to try either your method or Bobby’s tomorrow; it’s a tough choice since I have both gun oil and WD-40. I’ll keep you updated once I’ve finished, which should be in about 1-3 days.

Thanks again, Alex!

[Moneyz01]

Hey Bobby,

I have just one more question regarding the advice you gave me. You might have answered this already, but I just want to make sure I'm doing it right. Should I start with a small amount of oil or a large amount when doing the process?

Thanks, Bobby!

[Bobby]

As I would recommend starting with a small area of the pommel, I would use a small amount of oil. One reason being is that you want to control the size of the area that you are working on. Again, start small to see if the treatment that you will be using is effective. Also, you want to keep the oil from spreading beyond metal surfaces. Do not apply too much pressure either, if you are using bronze wool. If you are seeing any bad effect on the metal surface, you are being too aggressive and should stop.

[Moneyz01]

Hey Bobby and Alex!

I tried Alex's method last night and removed all the WD-40. From what I can see, it seemed to work. However, there seems to be rust in some areas where I applied the WD-40. The inside of the handle still appears to have rust (I used a Q-tip to apply the WD-40 since I couldn't fit a rag in there). As you mentioned, "If any red/orange rust is still visible, spot spray it with WD-40 and slowly and lightly apply circular pressure with 0000 steel wool." Should I do that for the inside of the handle?

Another thing is that the WD-40 didn't remove much rust from the bottom of the blade (see picture below). Should I leave it as is, or should I still use the steel wool on the bottom of the blade since the rust isn’t too severe? If not, do you want me to apply Ren Wax?

After I removed all the WD-40, I used turpentine to clean it off completely. Then I applied Ren Wax to the areas where the rust was removed by the WD-40. Also, is it okay if I got a little bit of turpentine on the wooden handle?

Thanks, Alex and Bobby!

[Alex W]

From your photos there’s still a fair bit of orange rust which I would want gone. Time for the WD40 and steel wool on the orange bits. Go slow and wipe off with a rag after a few goes then reapply and start again until it’s gone. As for the hard to reach spots get creative and use something hard and plastic to manipulate the wool into the areas. You may never get it all out of the slot in the handle but just do the best you can. Don’t stress about getting wd40 or turpentine on the handles it’s not going to ruin them. Don’t bother with the ren wax until you’ve finished getting the active rust off as much as you can

[Moneyz01]

Hey Alex,

Should I apply the WD-40 to the steel wool first or directly onto the bayonet? I assume I should use a generous amount of WD-40 to avoid leaving marks, right? Also, if I accidentally brush the blade with the steel wool, will it damage it?

Thanks again Alex