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I've never used diesel , but I may in the future . What I would do , is buy some good quality gun oil , in a spry can and some Superfine steel wool . Spray into the sheath repeatedly and flush out any dirt etc , coat the blade in the oil and use the oiled steel wool to clean all the blade (use an clean toothbrush on the saw teeth), wipe off and repeat until it's cleaned . Try not to get oil on the wood , but a little won't hurt . Once cleaned up use a clean rag and some more oil to protect the all the metal parts from future rust . This is what I'd do , but if anyone else has suggestions please add them .
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04-27-2016 03:49 PM
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by
AZPhil
A good soak in diesel fuel will be a good start. DON'T GET IT ON THE WOOD GRIPS!!! Oil after the diesel soak and then show what you have. There are many Things that can bring this back to life, But starting with the least corrosive is the best method. If it's pitted there is no return from that damage. There are products like semi-chrome and others that can be used , BUT MOVE SLOWLY. Better to have a blade restored than a blade damaged
Semper Fi
Phil
Thank you for the great advice!
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I also have one of those, nice find for the price.
I have been told that during WWI any German soldier found with one of these in his possession was summarily executed on the spot as these were looked at as horrific weapons of war.
I tend to agree if this is true.
Thanks
Burt
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Yes I heard the same thing Burt , I also believe you can find these with the saw teeth ground off . Which would collaborate your story . But a foot and a half of steel would hurt like the dickens , saw teeth or not .
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by
CBH
I've never used diesel , but I may in the future . What I would do , is buy some good quality gun oil , in a spry can and some Superfine steel wool . Spray into the sheath repeatedly and flush out any dirt etc , coat the blade in the oil and use the oiled steel wool to clean all the blade (use an clean toothbrush on the saw teeth), wipe off and repeat until it's cleaned . Try not to get oil on the wood , but a little won't hurt . Once cleaned up use a clean rag and some more oil to protect the all the metal parts from future rust . This is what I'd do , but if anyone else has suggestions please add them .
Thanks so much, I'm going to try this first
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by
serialins0mniac
Thanks so much, I'm going to try this first
When choosing the steel wool make sure it is the #0000 grade. Courser steel wool will leave scratch marks. And like CBH mentioned make sure the steel wool is soaked in the oil..
Semper Fi
Phil
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AZPHIL , CBH do you guys have recommendations for the kind of spray gun oil to buy. I'd like to get a good one but not sure which. eBay has so many my heads spinning lol.
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personally I have always used Hoppes #9 solvent with 0000 steel wool, then use Hoppes gun oil. or you can just use the gun oil. The solvent will get a lot of the rust and grunge off the blade easier. You can get it at any gun store / Bi mart / Wal Mart. I found that the solvent also instantly removes green oxidation from anything metal like brass or bronze, you just have to be careful applying it so it does not get anything but the metal parts.
Thanks
Burt
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Typically, I leave blades as found and only apply a very light oiling and perhaps a wipe down on metal surfaces as necesary.
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Hoppes and Remington are the type of oil I use . If your worried about using steel wool (Super Fine) on the blade , just do a good oiling and see how it looks . Then decided if you want to try the steel wool .
I haven't tried the solvent and wool before , but I might on my next crusty clean up , thanks for the tip Burt .
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